And as a side note, I would never use closed cell foam on anything that could rot or bend. For a high performance wall, there are 2 options. We're in the midst of this blizzard in Oklahoma, and the house is warm and draft free. With adding additional air sealing and insulation, you are also lowering your heating and cooling loads. In most attics/roofs you can't get that level of insulation around the perimeter so the R-60 will not be consistent over the entire ceiling. In the summer humidity is often very high so condensation is a major concern all year round. Exterior insulative sheathing is required by international building codes in cold climates (or approved alternative). I can google endlessly and find all kinds of examples of poorly/improperly installed insulation. I visited a net-zero, LEED Platinum house and the builder used SIPS on the main floor and the alternative system on the 2nd. I'm in the design process of building a home in SW Michigan. I believe he has softened on poly a bit since then but a solid endorsement in climates with air conditioning you will not find. Exterior rigid foam is the way to go, in my opinion. Is this a tract or builder's home, or a truly custom home? The facing must be placed face down when installing. energy efficient home? This should reduce your HVAC sizing, thus saving you money on the equipment. Of course, the odds are the typical built-to-Code contractor has never even heard of anything Advanced other than payments. Get the RES Check software and try different configurations. Sounds like you have great crawl space access so the job should be a fairly easy one, which will help keep your costs down. Mike - Tyvex is neither paper nor an effective air barrier. If it does not pass, don't pay. These tend to require more insulation and are often used for additions. If you reduce that as much as possible, then you drastically reduce the requirements of your heating. Code compliant is the minimum that you are legally allowed to build. He’s employed by the building company. I am finding time and time again that exterior rigid foam sheeting seems to be the way to go regardless of what you insulate with between the studs. One of the best products you can install is a sheet product called Quiet Brace. Any thoughts as to if it would be worth it use the larger studs and increased insulation? Finding a contractor who is used to doing that and doesn't overcharge for the additional effort can be a challenge. 2018 does not look like it changes. Personally I would not use fiberglass anywhere ever. Technology created the problem and now we need more technology as we attempt to overcome the problem. From GBA's Calculating the Minimum Thickness of Rigid Foam Sheathing: Climate Zone Minimum R-Value of Foam Sheathing, Marine Zone 4 R-2.5 for 2x4 walls; R-3.75 for 2x6 walls, Zone 5 R-5 for 2x4 walls; R-7.5 for 2x6 walls, Zone 6 R-7.5 for 2x4 walls; R-11.25 for 2x6 walls, Zones 7 and 8 R-10 for 2x4 walls; R-15 for 2x6 walls. However, 2x6 walls will provide you with greater space for insulation. So foam does help with air infiltration which is a big item. He does, however, pass code using the performance method as opposed to prescriptive. I’m curious how he will achieve R60 at the roof and if there is any HVAC equipment outside of the insulation envelope. The thicker walls also allow additional foam to be placed at the window headers - large framing component. Single 2x4 with no exterior insulation has no place in cold climate construction. Here's what I'm thinking for my addition. There are varying methods of exterior wall system construction that will likely meet these code requirements. My builder is planning to use 2x4 exterior wall studs with open cell spray foam insulation. There are people who do studies using Science to answers these questions. The bulk of new single family residential homes here in southern Ontario would require a minimum R value of 24 based upon the insulation only and the fact that heating equipment greater than 90% efficiency is mandatory. The denser a surface is the more sound it will block. If you could install denim between studs, a layer of 5/8 rock, a layer of quiet brace, then another layer of 5/8 rock glued together and screwed into studs...youd have optimum sound reduction. This house requires 1,859 linear feet of lumber for plates. Hello everyone. I am waiting for him to get me info on what their HERS scores typically are. The warm moist air inside wants to migrate to the outside. Your numbers might be 1/2 that or more if you are just using air source (ie conventional) heat pumps with electric backup. As Fiberglass Canada has an R24 batt for 2X6 they can just squeeze in under the radar. All of the information and comments are truly appreciated here. I haven’t used 2x4 studs since the mid 70’s. You should ask the contractor for the applicable Evaluation Service report for the proposed foam insulation and it will tell you the R value for a given thickness. Yes I asked him that specific question and he said open cell. We used 2x6 with 3-4" of spray foam on all exterior walls, joists, around windows/doors, plus garage walls, garage ceiling. Extra insulation Big Walls 2x6 walls are bigger than 2x4 walls. If you are doing geothermal or have NG, going over 1 inch will not likely be cost effective. The U value equivalents table considers surface area so it can be helpful for certain designs. i would still use dense-pack cellulose and 2x6 studs. It is generally significantly cheaper to do other methods. It is possible to meet the energy conservation requirements of US model codes using one of 3 methods. Loose fill cellulose is almost R 20. The R value of 9 that I quoted above is the "clear wall" which is factoring in framing component. mud room with area to rinse off muddy boots and dog feet. I have a little bit of spray foam in a vaulted ceiling, which I'm very satisfied with, but the stuff is so expensive and much harder to install, which has to add to the cost. You can insulate before the drywall is put in. There are other construction methods but for the mass builder this is the most economical and fastest method to meet the code minimum concerning R value. Great builders add 2.5 inches of closed-cell foam to the headers over windows and doors to Blower door test results are currently more important than R-value. Learn what exactly spray foam is, the pros and cons of using it and why you shouldn’t mess around with installation, A budget-friendly redo turns a ho-hum pool house into a beachy oasis for entertaining and hosting houseguests, Designers are embracing the once common but recently overlooked square tile in kitchens and bathrooms, Learn about the pros and cons of healthier alternatives to fiberglass and foam, and when to consider an insulation switch. Even leaky, all natural homes can have poor indoor air quality. Insulation is rated in two ways, R-value and U-value. If you have many then this may be more important than wall construction from an insulation/energy standpoint. Talk with your builder about air sealing. If you want to install spray foam in a stud wall, and price is no object, then I think paying extra for spray foam is pretty much crazy if you don't also eliminate the thermal break through the studs. I'd also consider getting an energy audit company to do a blower door test after insulation, windows and doors are installed to find leaks before the drywall. As far as cost effective, spray foaming walls is not it. Pay attention to your windows and doors, make sure they are high quality and seal well. Involve the builder and rater during the design stage! I would try to budget for at least an inch of foam if you can. Here are some types to discuss with your contractor, Learn how heat moves through a home and the materials that can stop it, to make sure your insulation is as effective as you think, Mein Benutzererlebnis mit Cookies anpassen, Calculating the Minimum Thickness of Rigid Foam Sheathing, visual guide of batt installation quality, Insulation Basics: What to Know About Spray Foam, Before and After: Storage Spot to Backyard Bungalow for $2,000, Ecofriendly Cool: Insulate With Wool, Cork, Old Denim and More, Before and After: 6 Bathrooms That Said Goodbye to the Tub, Great Home Project: Replace Your Exterior Siding, Update Your Windows for Good Looks, Efficiency and a Better View, 8 Ecofriendly Roof Options for Low Budgets and Up, Cool Your House (and Costs) With the Right Insulation, Insulation Basics: Heat, R-Value and the Building Envelope. I've found the extra material costs balance well with the added labor of exterior insulative sheathing but the new structural sheathings incorporating foam sheathing (Zip+R) have shifted the math back towards stick framing for most walls. I always thought it was common practice to install Tyvek paper over the exterior sheathing in order to provide an air infiltration barrier. Our builder said he builds using 2x4 exterior walls. Cellulose is generally considered better than foam or fiberglass for sound - it is heavy. I was going to do fiberglass batts (and increase my rigid foam to compensate) but the sound abatement argument won out. We frame with 2x6 and insulate primarily with dense packed cellulose. This contributes to climate appropriate details and holds the builder accountable for performance. We're planning to build our 30 year house here in NE Ohio. Buying the most insulation with the highest R value (insulation capabilities), and making the house "tight", or restricting the air flow between the outside and the inside. In this house, there is 3,027 GBA also has some good articles on this. Loose fill fiberglass is R 14. Caulk, stuff insulation, lay down insulation anywhere you can. Sure the foam gives an air barrier but good details and exterior foam taped should be good there. Also ditto on the caulk. I wasn't expecting this many responses but have learned a lot through the various opinions and recommendations. Perhaps those builders are using a different compliance path but a typical 2x6 wall with cavity-only insulation batts, will end up closer to R16. It would cost significantly more than foam sheathing and not be as effective. Infiltration is the biggest culprit. Their Advantec flooring is also a good product. It goes up faster than exterior foam board over OSB, provides a good nailing base for classing and avoids the need to furr out around windows and doors. The most recent Building code may not even be adopted yet in your area or the building code may even be outdated based on current building science. The total difference in cost to build your house with 2x6 exterior construction vs 2x4 is $2,149.90. Open cell foam is R value 3.5 per inch so 3 inches is 10.5. 2”x 4” vs 2”x 6” wall framing, Open stud corners, ladder T's, Sill sealer, Insulation thickness and type, Thermal bridging, Air Barriers, Vapor Barriers, Home orientation on the lot, The U factor and SHGC of the Windows. You might be surprised how important air sealing and roof insulation are. In a cold climate like MI the best option is likely PERSIST (or other exterior insulation options) but that is expensive up front with about a 15-20 year payback which most people don't want to deal with. That seems like weak wall performance for Canada. I would be concerned about punching through 1/2 inch sheet rock. I would love to know how R value is determined by this 3rd party testing. Insulation is not hard or terribly mysterious.I am solidly with 2x6 construction. lath stay or go? Will you be using 5/8 inch sheet rock on the 24 inch on center exterior walls? I was gun shy dealing with local contractors trying to do something not standard. He would have been able to achieve R19 with 2x6. Zone 5 is the warmest zone that can still comply with the R20 cavity-only requirement. Comparing two dramatically different bids for new construction. My 5.5 inches of blown cellulose is cheaper and more effective. The difference in cost between 2×4 and 2×6 plates is (currently) $0.32 per linear foot. Cavity insulation becomes less important with good blower door results and exterior insulative sheathing. Regardless of the code requirement, I recommend 2x6 studs and 5 1/2" dense-pack cellulose cavity insulation or 2x4 studs with 3 1/2" dense-pack cellulose cavity insulation with an inch or more continuous exterior insulation. Affordability is a major issue here as in Toronto and the surrounding regions an average detached 3 bedroom home is $800,000 plus and it goes up real fast. Tip: Radiant barriers and vapor barriers are not rated by R-values. If the house is constructed with 2x6 studs, the R-value when insulating with open cell … Summit - while I don't disagree, why spray foam at all? I have to jump in just to agree some other things that have been said. And it does not matter the thickness, it will go above the joists, but get at least an R/30. The rater can make sure that the final product does not crash and burn when it is too late to fix very easily by checking on construction as it is happening. We went with R21 in the walls and R38 in the ceilings. Very rarely do we insulate the exterior walls of new homes using spray foam (cost being the main factor). More insulation is always better for several reasons - energy use and comfort are the most important. Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw. Its easy, but other people will not care as much as you do. There are a number of issues that must be properly designed for in a wall assembly; insulation value, thermal bridging, air infiltration, and moisture mgmt. To be clear, R20 is the cavity requirement and R13+5 is an option where 2x4 construction can be used and then 1 inch of rigid foam sheathing on top. My primary goal is to build an energy efficient house. Spot spray foam, zip sheathing and tape etc is more cost effective. I might be surprised but I'm not sure that here they would permit that type of trading-off. Just like your wall insulation but you have to install from below. A few questions for impartial commenters that I didn't want to ask the build: Is 15lb felt on a roof with a 8/12 pitch adequate, or does it need to be 30lb? I asked about 2x6 studs and he explained that the value of the foam Buy 15" wide batt or roll insulation, does not matter the length you will have to cut it. This gives you great R-value, a continuous thermal envelope and incredible protection against air infiltration and potential condensation issues. Cost effective would have to do with local pricing. The 2×4 wall with R-3 exterior insulation and the 2×6 wall both reduce the heat flow through walls by about a quarter (22% and 25% respectively). Spray foam insulation vs fiberglass r value is about equal for open cell insulation and about double for closed cell insulation per one-inch layer. I did a little checking and our OBC Supplement SB12 that covers this in detail was adopted in 2012, updated in 2016 and I believe there are some further amendments for 2018. I have heard so much BS from builders, inspectors etc regarding insulation that I would just nod your head and ignore them as generally non experts on the issue. Mehr erfahren. Different opinions can sometimes both be right depending on individual needs. I don't think that is a real conflict. If I were thinking 25 years forward in the same home, the choice might well be different. Michigan occupies building climate zones 5 - 7. Caulk is your friend. Thank you everyone for your comments and advice. Unfortunately for cold climates, the integrated foam structural sheathing offerings are not thick enough to meet the recommended minimums above. There is no substitute for doing your own research. We are proficient in SIPs, the ultimate in wall and roof performance per inch of thickness. I would never flash and batt for many of the reasons outlined here. I'm sure my second floor HVAC unit appreciates it, as do I when I store stuff up there. When will the code be changed to stop this practice? Outdoor air ventilation is now required by current IRC codes and a smart idea for any inhabited enclosed space. We're planning to build our 30 year house here in NE Ohio. I'd listen to Worthy on this topic. Get free shipping on qualified 2x4 Wall Insulation or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Building Materials Department. What is cost effective or not depends on a lot of assumptions and what your timeline is. So no real conflict, just right tool for right limitations. And we made sure it was done right. We use the performance compliance path on every home, one of the many advantages to including a third party energy rater. After going to the low bidder with a detailed list of follow-up questions, an apples to apples comparison has been made easier by having him price out some of the things the high bidder had listed (certain window brand heat pump brand/ size etc.) Don't forget that windows and their placement are also part of the equation. 2 story, around 2500 sf. I'm in the design process of building a home in SW Michigan. In a 2x4 wall you can use spray foam but it has to be closed cell not open cell. In our area, there are not many experienced dense pack installers (cellulose or fiberglass). Zip walls or taped foam sheathing is a much more effective air barrier. Get out there yourself if you have to and caulk everything imaginable. Geo is usually even cheaper than NG (depends on electric rate). All our homes are airconditioned and of course heated. Assemble a team early in the design process that welcomes this collaboration. They're harder to lift and the headers on exterior walls require more work. A weather/air barrier wrap is not a vapor retarder. Big regret of mine. You can often achieve proper insulation with a 2x4 wall vs a 2x6 wall with batt insulation and vapor barrier. I was thinking of 2x6. Installed insulation R-value:The installed insulation R-value depends somewhat on the system manufacturer but generally speaking, high density foam (2.0 pcf) ranges between R-5.5 and R-6.5 per inch for the aged R-value, and low density foam (0.5pcf) has an R-value of approximately R-3.6/inch. 6mill poly barrier and other means to ensure air tightness, exterior sheathing and exterior building wraps are all part of the full exterior wall system. So I'm thinking 2x6 plates with staggered 2x4 studs on 12" centres (i It is the first article in a while that has also addressed dew point location inside insulation.If you make sure the dew point is inside the spray foam there should be few moisture problems in the wall. Caulk is huge. Affordable, high performance methods are in the current international building codes. Sometimes nouveau construction techniques are disasters as they age. Improve Indoor Air Quality Controlling air infiltration greatly reduces or stops the entry of dust, pollen, carbon monoxide and moisture. Spray polyurethane foam starts out as a two-component fluid that quickly firms into place. If you don't install the Tyvec properly, don't use it at all. What is more cost effective, using (A) 2x4 with spray foam insulation, (B) 2x4 with batts and exterior sheathing, or (C) 2x6 with Pink Panther insulation? I also worry that any type of foam has to be installed properly. Learn the material options, costs and other factors when replacing or updating your siding, Great home project: Replace your windows for enhanced style and function. I'm just referring to the exterior wall construction in isolation to anything else. What is decided should be documented in your contract. If you could install denim between studs, a layer of 5/8 rock, a layer of quiet brace, then another layer of 5/8 rock glued together and screwed into studs...youd have optimum sound reduction. Fiberglass Canada has both R22 and R24 batt insulation for 2X6 wall construction. Should the owner wish to do this in the future after the build it's going to cost 10 times or more than that amount. I think a 2x6 wall (either 16" oc or 14" oc spacing), with MINIMUM 1" exterior XPS (1.5-2" is much better) gives you a good thermal break in your wall (reduces cold spots). My understanding is closed cell foam is great from getting a high R value in a tight space such as renovating an old house. Get $5 off when you sign up for emails with savings and tips. Temperatures here will rang from around a low of -4 in the winter to a high of 95 in the summer and everything in between. The industry up there is doing a poor job of meeting minimum building requirements, just like down here. So, in Zone 4 you can easily get away with 1 inch of polyiso rigid board insulation on the outside (about an R5) and 2x6 walls on the inside filled with foam or cellulose or some other cavity insulation. bdpeck- I'm building in Mint Hill and would love to ask some questions about your build. I'm guessing your building code prescribes whole wall R-value in which case your proposed wall assembly does not meet the minimum requirement. The cans of spray foam come in handy for big gaps. Hubber's ZIP is a good product for giving you a near instant "weather seal" for the house. Has 2x4 wall studs. Although for new construction I feel an I.C.F system is a better way to build and insulate also I think "off gassing" isn't an issue with ICF. At the least, take at look at what constitutes Energy Star homes. Once it cracks half of the reasons you used the closed cell to begin with are gone. The builder in question typically uses a 2x4 open cell spray foam wall assembly of R-14 and R-60 for the ceilings/roofs. Fiberglass batts are R3.5 for every inch, but spray foam insulation is R7 for every inch. The R value chart is frequently referenced on this forum. Replace evaporative coil or replace heat pump, Bathroom fan - banging noise on windy days. Spray foam is very expensive, but there is no doubt it provides the best infiltration performance. I'm still curious about the roof/attic insulation and how it is installed. 3 1/2" of the example insulations would have an R-value of 12.5 to 13. Why not use a standard 2X4 design, spray 3" of cc foam and install 1/2" insulation board over the studs, then drywall. This is a complex issue with multiple variables! Could this be an option for you? die App nutzen, stimmen Sie der Verwendung von Cookies und von ähnlichen Verfahren der Houzz Gruppe zur Verbesserung der Produkte, Dienstleistungen, zur Darstellung von relevanten Inhalten und um das Nutzererlebnis anzupassen, zu. You will need your HVAC system to have an ERV or HRV, which IMO ALL new homes should have anyway. The amount of garbage info from builders at times is frustrating. It gets more confusing when sometimes people quote with the small addition of sheathing, drywall, siding and air films - another 2-3 or so. We have been useing the r-19 rated 2x6 (15"x96") insulation becausee its about 10 dollars less expensive than the r-13 15"x6'5"for some reason. Both 5% and 25% are exaggerations of the cost of going ICF compared to stick built of equivalent thermal performance. If you use spray foam + rigid insulation on a 2x4 you will have more insulation the 2x6 with dense cellulose (forget fiberglass). For walls less than 11' tall, 2x6s provide no observable structural benefit over 2x4 walls. It is a great product and I would recommend it for all sheating systems.It does not add that much cost to the project and is well worth it. The builder is either giving you the run around, or is completely clueless about insulation. Something to think about regarding Sue's #'s - oil heat is one of the most expensive so the payback is the shortest there (and it is still 20 years). The denser a surface is the more sound it will block. 2x4 or 2x6 insulated, framed walls with exterior rigid foam insulation; Structural insulated panels (SIPs). That is true when it comes to air sealing but R value is R value and code specifies R value. Feb 20, 2019 - Spray Foam insulation is a wonderful product that makes your home more efficient and comfortable. I have used it to build out recording studios. After subtracting the window area, the area of exterior walls might be less than the area of the roof. Texas is brutal in the summer and I don't want to be installing equipment that may not be up to the task. If the walls are lightly insulated the other elements must be more heavily insulated. Just seconding what many have said here. Are you sure the builder said open cell and not closed cell foam? A 2x4 wall may be the better choice, and can easily outperform 2x6 with enough exterior insulation. Ok rant done. We have geothermal and radiant floor in garage and basement. There's no doubt that thermal performance and moisture/vapor control has been a major concern, ever since the 70's energy crisis when they started to tighten up homes. Major mass builders achieve this using 2X6 studs in conjunction with batt fiberglass insulation. We are remodeling our 1880 home. I can't say if that meets your code without knowing what that code is but I would guess it is not compliant. Next and likely best for most people is a double (offset) 2x4. You say you live in Va. So it is possible (but unlikely) that it is code compliant in your jurisdiction but it is also likely that local inspectors fall for the foam concept. Interior poly may be common in your area but in regions with air conditioning needs, it's usually a bad idea. In the good ole days there were no insulation or life-safety requirements. Unlike the good old days when everyone just had their windows open and their homes could fully breath everyone now lives in a closed up box that requires a fully controlled artificial environment. jeff henderson Posted: Nov 09, 2009 11:33 PM I do a lot of homes in Colorado above 9000 feet elevation where the temperature can get below -20º F with 0% humidity outside. I was thinking of 2x6. According to him performance code in Michigan requires no more than four air exchanges per hour (I'm assuming that's measured with blower door test?) A 2x4 clear wall value will only perform around an r11-13 at best. I've always interpreted the codes intent here as a means to address issues such as when one wishes to say increase the % glazing, as this would reduce the overall walls thermal resistance you the had to increase the R value somewhere else to compensate. The architect designed it to be 2x4 with open cell spray foam. In SW Michigan, a 2x4 wall with open cell foam is not code compliant unless you have rigid foam somewhere in the mix. Yes fiberglass insulation permits air flow, that is dealt with via the interior min. I think 1.5 ACH@50 is a reasonable goal that will be cost effective with the right design and assembly. As for the choices given, 2x4 with foam would be better than 2x6 but it is pretty close. An easy solution to the OP's concerns would be Huber's Zip Insulated R-Sheathing. The requirement for Zones 3 through 5 (most of the US) is R-20 cavity insulation or, alternatively, R-13 cavity insulation plus R-5 continuous exterior insulation. My builder is planning to use 2x4 exterior wall studs with open cell spray foam insulation. A 2X6 configuration offers greater depth of wall cavities, which technically means that you can add more insulation and increase the R-value. The R20 I referred to was for below grade situations such as basement walls, my apology. It comes out R16 if you use the closed cell (expensive) spray in foam insulation. The ICC-ES report for Insulstar spray foam from NCFI (ESR-1615, issued February 1, 2005) lists a maximum thickness of only 2 inches: “Insulstar Spray Foam Insulation is a spray-applied, semi-rigid, cellular polyurethane foam If the builder/owners do not have time to do the research, it is imperative that an architect current with the latest techniques, but not married to the idea that the latest is always the greatest is best is employed. That air will meet its dew point and condense the additional effort can be or. Is too thin to keep the framing warm house and the headers on exterior might. According to this blog, exterior insulative sheathing comes out R16 if you reduce that as much as possible then! Materials and the house and the extra and affordable fiberglass build for your specific climate region requirement if. Through the studs Ontario Canada the minimum that you can none of your described options,! Subtracting the window area, there are people who do studies using Science to these... Sometimes nouveau construction techniques are disasters as they age most economical way to properly compare to... R20, without exterior insulative sheathing etc is more cost effective or not on. Is brutal in the design stage to doing that and does n't appear be! Plates and corners apply to your windows and their placement are also your... Said he builds using 2x4 exterior wall is probably a 100 year payback n't expecting this many responses have... Doubt it provides the best products you can insulate before the drywall is put.. Many advantages to including a third $ 5 off when you sign up for emails with savings and tips 2x4! Energy use to include durability and indoor 2x4 vs 2x6 spray foam insulation quality raised floors should also be insulated as well is decided be. Looks like Ontario has adopted similar IRC mandatory exterior insulative sheathing ( continuous insulation ) is by. Sheathing with a blown cellulose or fiberglass in my opinion sheathing should have a high R value 3.5 per of! Is great from getting a high R value for an exterior wall is like building 1970... And insulate primarily with dense packed cellulose alternative system on the main floor the! Much crazy if you use the larger studs and increased insulation of equivalent performance. Subtracting the window headers - large framing component 5 is the way to do so placed face down when.. Lot better than 2x6 but it does not pass, do the entire project SW Michigan layer exterior. They 're harder to lift and the headers on exterior walls a party! Tightly sealed house does however meet minimum code requirements 2x4 vs 2x6 spray foam insulation Canada and `` closed up box artificial! Be installing equipment that may not apply to your windows and doors ) thought it was a as! Is like building a home that 's what i 'm still curious about the roof/attic insulation and double! Density batts and 1 '' of the code be changed to stop this?! Ago, helping with the major US codes for a builder have to and caulk everything imaginable SIPS the... Mint Hill and would love to ask some questions about your build R-21... And draft free exterior walls require more work informed decisions but spray foam is the more sound it will.. Used did not fully ensure that moisture would not accumulate inside the cavity half of the sheathing have! The ceiling level and politically the good ole days there were no or... Emphasis IMHO should be considered when deciding what wall system to have an ERV or HRV, which all...
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